Sun. Dec 3. [3 December 1899] Warmer and finer than ever. Sighted
the Greek coast about 9, past C. Gallo about 3. Kalamata [Kalamai]
lying white at the bottom of the bay and the long Matapan [Akra
Tainaron] promontory stretching out barren and shapely with clouds
shading the top of it and hanging low on Taygetus [Taiyetos Oros].
Read an essay of Renan's talked and lounged all day. Macalister
knows Grandpapa. I avoided successfully the service they and Mr
Forbes got up! Talked to a horrid Levantine who thinks himself very
English and to a nice little Syrian born Swiss, an agent of Cook's. We
passed Matapan after dark, no just at dark after the most gorgeous
sunset - clouds lying lightly on the long promontory, casting exquisite
delicate shadows and lifting up off the summit of the hills like white
locks of curly hair from the forehead of the land. The red and yellow
light lay softly on sea and rock and barren slope and a ring of fleecy
clouds encircled the horizon. After dinner, however it rained heavily. I
played Patiences with the Australians (Dr J.W. Barrett 127 Collins St.
Melbourne - Heimath, Lansell Road Toorak.)