Wed. 12. [12 April 1899] Left Athens [Athinai] at 7. Mr Bell came to the
station to see us off. Lovely day. Snow on Helicon [Elikon Oros] and
the Arcadian mountains. Got of [sic] Mycenae Phyctia [Fikhtia] at 12
and lunched at the station. Constantine Icomenides producing a fine
basket. Drove up to Mycenae on the bare hill side. The great walls
most imposing. Went into the Treasury of Atreus, wonderful. A great
block of stone for the lintel, then a great bee hive inside, enormous,
built of immense blocks. Then to Mrs Schliemann's tomb, the top of
which has fallen in and so up to the Citadel. Turning an angle of the
wall we came upon the Lion Gate with the sun on it and the great Lions
pawing up in a magnificent attitude, all the muscles of the flanks
marked. Inside was the Agora circle and the holes of the tombs
where all the gold was found. Great walls all about, mostly squared
stones. Up to the Palace where we traced the foundations with
difficulty, but found the stair. On the north side a bank mixed with
stones and scarlet anemonies leading down to a tiny postern
opening onto the bare hillside covered with tinkling flocks. In the east
great walls and galleries and a stair cut through the solid rock leading
down to a well. Lovely view from the citadel over the "horse bearing"
plain and Argos on its hill and the sea. Orestes' view in the opening of
the Electra. Drove to Argos where I photographed the theatre on the
hillside and we had tea. The Venetian fort, founded on Pelasgic
walls, stands up finely. A white monastery on the hillside. Drove to
Nauplia [Navplion], beautifully placed with Venetian forts covering the
hills, blue sea, poplars and cypresses. Passed Tiryns [Tirins].
Dˆrpfeld and 40 Germans at our hotel (des Etrangers). Dined at a
Restaurant and so to bed. Difficulties with Camera! [Pressed flower
attached to page].