Thurs 5. [5 April 1900] I got up at 5 and bathed in the river. It was
cloudy and looked like rain, but as a matter of fact it didn't. We were
off at a quarter to 7 and got to the Waleh soon after 10. The flowers
were delightful - hollyhock, blank iris, ranunculus, acanthus, a yellow
thing with a small pea like flower, clumps of a white aromatic thing,
purple gladiolus, etc. The Waleh itself was a forest of yellow fennel.
The mules joined us, and we started off together. I got to Madeba
[Madaba] soon after 2.30, cloudy and a little rain. Determined to
camp on the W of the town under the columns - the place is called the
Mashnaka, I afterwards found it was the Latin graveyard. While I
waited for my tents, I walked up to the Latin monastery and went in to
avoid the rain. I found a party of aimiable [sic] gentlemen sitting
around with whom I talked and told them about the fate of the prisoner.
One of them, a Christian, was much grieved and burst into
protestations against the Circassians, soldiers and governors alike.
Then came in a man called Girius, opened the guest chamber for me
and gave me coffee. He was most kind, offered me salad which I
glady accepted. By this time my tents were up so I went back and
found the Arus and her mother whom I invited into my tent. They were
followed by 3 intelligent men who sat with me, and questioned me
about Europe, America, Australia and the ..... of the war. They were
chiefly anxious to know whether there were any Mohammadans in our
parts and how fast the trains went. It rained a great deal in the night
and the mosquitoes were awful. They come from all the stagnant old
bi'rs. My men kept watch till dawn fearing thieving Circassians who
abound.