Thurs. 16. [16 April 1896] Woke at 6 and out onto the balcony where
there was delicious sunrise. Mended stockings until 7 when Mrs
Green appeared. Breakfasted with Mr Hogarth and went out to Santa
Maria C..... in which is a poor {specimen} imitation of S Giovanni in
Forte and San Spirito, Theodoric's Arian church. Round by San
Vitale and Galla Placidia's tomb - such a dark beautiful blue in the
morning light and home to the hotel where we met Mr Hogarth who
took us to the Library and showed us the only Aristophanes MS in the
world, of the 10th cent, and a Dante said to have been written by
Pietro which I opened and read Sieda la terra dove nata fui. Guido
de Polenta's house is just opposite Dante's tomb. Round to the
Abp's chapel - lovely those angels of the roof, sons of the morning,
and the Baptistery, then up to S. Appolinaire in Citta and so home to a
merry lunch with Lady Galloway and Mr H. Left Ravenna at 2,
gorgeous day. Passed right through the Pinetum then through sand
flats with the Apennines and rice beds on one hand and the bluest
sea on the other. Crossed the Rubicon and reached Rimini at 4.
Aquila d'oro. Delightful place. Saw Augustus' bridge and his arch,
the Duomo (Tempio dei Malatesta) half finished noble early
Renaissance with beautiful sculptures on its chapels inside, children
like della Robbia, and exquisite months and signs of the Zodiac, and
everywhere the Malatesta roses and elephants. Bought pots from an
old woman who called me Carina. Saw the people filling their
beautiful earthenware pots at the fountain. Then to the Malatesta
castle where we sat on the wall and looked out over smiling country to
the Apennines and San Marino. Out after dinner and saw the red glow
of sunset, the Apennines misty and blue and a crescent moon. Sat on
our balcony.