Fri. 17. [17 April 1896] Out early, despatched our pots, drove down to
the port and saw the exquisite coastline stretching to Ancona; into the
picture gallery where there is a wonderful John Bellini Pieta, the Christ
supported by 3 little angels, His figure exquisite. Into the Duomo and
so home and away at 11. I couldn't get my luggage registered
because the station master was an enthusiastic collector of stamps
and collected them from me! Exquisite line to Faenza pasing by
Forte. At Faenza I parted from Mrs Green and got a carriage to
myself to Florence [Firenze]. The country at first smiling, vineyards,
olive gardens, rocks crowned with little towns with peaceful citadels;
then barer and colder and finally a little snow. Came down onto the
wonderful Tuscan side studded with primroses, and all the trees
young and green like a Perugino and cypresses. At 5.45 looked up
and found Fiesole above me and the Dome and towers of Florence in
front. Hurried dinner, crowded train; got into a carriage Signore Sole
with 2 German husbands and wives, the guard ejected the husbands
much to their disgust. The wives kept the fleisch and the schinken!
Excruciatingly[?] funny, had seen Florence in one day but thought they
wd need 2 or even 3 for Rome [Roma]. Discovered Colonel Talbot's
bag in my carriage. Changed at Tarontola and fell in with the Talbots,
Caroline and Lord Brownlow. Exquisite starry night. Reached
Perugia at 10 and walked up through narrow wonderful streets,
knocked at the city gate and waited for them to be opened. Hotel
Brufani. No room for me, Caroline gave me a bed in hers. My
luggage didn't arrive till 4 next morning. Very tired.