Sat 15. [15 April 1893] Out early to see the Rose and Croix Exhibition. I really think they've improved since last year which is saying something for them. There was a kind of interpretation of Leonardo's Joconda called 'Ironie Sexuelle' by Berangier which was clever. There's a man called Khnopf[?] who does good things, specially a wonderful sphynx head. But most of them are impossible and the Sar Paladan surpassed himself in his preface to the catalogue. Left Paris at 12 and reached Nevers at 7. Lunched a la Perse at a little station soon after Fontainebleau, rushing out and seizing a cold chicken which we devoured in the train. A boring man in top boots travelled with us, he had two screws of horses on the train - hence the boots. Pretty country, all coming into flower and leaf. I never saw anything like the lilac here, it blooms in extraordinary profusion. The wide Loire bed all stony and shallow is rather nice. Passed a charming little place called La CharitÈ which sounds like a name in the Pilgrim's Progress. Hotel de France rather amusing rambling place. Dined and walked about Nevers till 9 then in to bed. Beautiful, warm starry night.