October 14 [1913]
Koritza
My dear Gertrude.

We arrived here in the rain after a cold ride of 25 miles or so – wet through. I had hurried on to take off the edge of deputations of all sorts, whether directed at Bilkinski or Lalia or Madame Bilkinski – to pronounce the fatal words that we had nothing to do with Koritza & see what followed – and to keep friends with all and sundry – So they all came – a deputation from Janina (after the visit to the Governor) - We are not going to receive deputations – therefore I had to explain to them how & why they were refused with each man’s long thought out fiery speech hanging on his tongue, & a row of journalists behind. When this was done – the Koritza sacred legion – after them the women of Koritza – Then I ran because I did not want any mud throwers at Mdme Bilinski – They all talked at once, which delighted them to such an extent that after an abortive attempt to go on their knees, they were induced to depart in about seven minutes, quite pleased at having said something – Then came visits – the Archbishop etc etc = & a vast and interesting display of the foreign legion – Then Alsterites marched through the town – armed & mostly in uniform – old men & children - & the parade of some 2500 finished up with a party of elderly females armed to the teeth – bells rang, huge flags were carried – the streets hung with blue & white streamers Σνωσιs γ Θανστοs – bands – hymns etc etc. Naturally I refused to be anything more than a very mere spectator in a corner – but it was very interesting - & passed off quietly.

Today the Archbishop turned up to return my visit accompanied by the corporation of fiery patriots & assisted by the whole town in procession! However it passed off quietly – though I had to refuse not quite so suavely, to go up to the balcony, be photographed etc – then came the Mufti with a tale of Greek benefits in Koritza town –

But riding in I had counted the three nearest villages destroyed – The Old Mufti could only tell me that across the frontier “the Serbs” were killing – My colleagues who should have been here yesterday had a break down with their motors, (we came on humble economical horses) and have never arrived – They will be here tomorrow I hope – and then on to Colonia, to begin work.

I am glad to have seen Koritza and its people, even though the position was really an extremely difficult one – I have not said one word which I could regret, but I can’t tell what the papers may say –

The general impression left on me is that this town is really Greek in sentiment, although the language is by majority Albanian – or so I am told – no doubt that is the impression intended to be left. It has to be remembered that to a Kortizote there are as alternatives the Govt by Hellas and priests and eloquence and I think we are bound to say freedom for Greeks – and the unknown Albanian Govt which consists as far as they know of Ismail Vemal and his crew – by local Beys with wrongs to even – If there were a well respected state to set against Greece – even that weakest of things and international occupation – the thing would wear a different aspect. Let Albania be governed by foreigners as the only neutrals for a few years (no Princeling is going to make any odds) backed by a gendarmerie and a civil service and it is a reasonable proposition to hand them these countries – but not yet – now it would mean as Crete meant – killings and raids – and anarchy –

However this is for you and me – for the President of the Commission the thing is done, and we go to work at Kolonia – It will be the same thing there in a lesser way. I have no doubt the Greeks have organised the affair there as well – they have sent us an officer to be at our disposition – we don’t want him, but as the Greek army occupies the country it is a natural thing to do – he will have to be kept away that is all. The language test - though for all I know, the best available – is not a very satisfactory one – and every frontier in so mixed a country must be unjust to somebody – besides that there are my colleagues widely diverging views & instructions – Besides the bitter cold wet weather – it is nearly freezing I fancy – I take refuge in God!

How is your brother?

Love from us both.
Yrs Dick.