G.H.Q. Basrah [Basrah, Al (Basra)] May 31 Dearest Father. I'll write you a word before I go to Nasiriyah [Nasiriyah, An], which is this afternoon, so that I mayn't miss a mail. I'm going up with General McMunn and various other distinguished parties, on a steamer. It takes about 2 days to get there and I expect it will be rather fun. This morning out riding I made the acquaintance of Col. and Mrs Gaunt (he is Base Commandant here) by the simple process of stopping and talking to them. I've seen them several times in the morning riding and as there are only about 6 women here and we both knew perfectly well who the other was it seemed too silly not to speak to her. I then rode with them home and I shall go and see her when I return - a nice woman. I get rather tired of seeing nothing but men. My great standby is Mrs Van Ess, the wife of the American missionary. I like them both and she is particularly nice. I see her often. He has an unexampled knowledge of the country and gives me a good deal of help. He speaks Arabic better than any foreigner I ever heard. Lady Cox is absolutely no good to any mortal soul - she is so damned stupid. I think I never came across any woman with so completely vacant a mind. However he redresses the balance, bless him. She is as kind as ever she can be, but there it is - There's no possible subject on which you can converse with her. We have had Arab refugees tumbling in from Baghdad, fleeing from Turkish oppression. The last was a Mullah - it's rather fun when Mullahs have to run away from a Mohammadan Govt. to a Christian in order to save their lives. I see most of these people and send in a report of their adventures and opinions - it's great sport. And it's also very valuable, sometimes, the lead they give you into the recesses of Oriental opinion. I generally know some of their friends, whether in Baghdad or Syria, which makes it easier to meet on equal terms. And very often they have heard about me. That also simplifies matters because then they know that I have mixed freely in their own society.
We have had an almost uninterrupted N. wind and the temperature never above 105° or so. It's not at all oppressive, and the nights are quite cool on the roof. Sometimes one even needs a blanket. I suppose we have worse before us than this for so far there's nothing to complain of, though the mosquitoes are rather a bore. I'm very fit and find that as long as I can get out for a ride in the early morning, so as to have some exercise I don't mind the climate a bit. One feels a little fagged towards the end of the day, that's all.

I hope when I get back I shall find letters from you. A mail is in today, but my letters seem to have missed. Ever your affectionate daughter Gertrude.