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Letter from Gertrude Bell to her father, Sir Hugh Bell

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Reference code
GB/1/1/2/1/10/10
Recipient
Bell, Sir Thomas Hugh Lowthian
Creator
Bell, Gertrude Margaret Lowthian
Creation Date
Extent and medium
1 letter, paper
Language
English
Location
Coordinates

33.5138073, 36.2765279

Damascus [Dimashq (Esh Sham, Damas)] Nov 29 Dearest Father. I sent you today a telegram which I fear will rather surprise you, asking you to make the National Bank telegraph £400 to my credit through the Ottoman Bank London, to the Ottoman Bank here. I telegraphed to you because I did not know whether if I telegraphed straight to the National Bank they would think the request sufficient without receiving it in writing; but I hasten to explain to you (which I couldn't do in the telegram) that this is not a gift for which I am asking, I wish to borrow the money from the N. Bank. The position is this: as far as I can make out, and I have now had a good deal of information from many sides, there never was a year more favourable for a journey into Arabia than this. The desert is absolutely tranquil, and there should be no difficulty whatever in getting to Hayyil [Hail], that is Ibn al Rashid's capital, and even much further. Moreover I have got today exactly the right man as a guide. He was with Mr Carruthers 3 years ago and I heard of him, with the highest praise, from him. Today he turned up at Bassam's, and Bassam at once told me that I could have no one who is better acquainted than he with all the Arab tribes. To have got him is a piece of extraordinary good luck. He is the man of all others whom I should have chosen. So much for the chances of success in this business. As for the expences [sic], you see this time I have to begin by buying everything I shall need here. As far as I can make out we shall need 17 camels (we have bought one or two already) and they cost an average of £13 a piece including their gear. Bassam says I must reckon to spend £50 on food to take with us, and £50 more for presents such as cloaks, keffiyehs for the head, cotton cloth etc. It is obvious that this is wise advice because the things are worth much more there than they are here and a kerchief which cost only 5/ here is a respectable present in the desert. That comes altogether to £321. Bassam says I ought to take £80 with me and to give £200 to a Nejd [Najd] merchant who lives here in return for a letter of credit which will permit me to draw the sum in Hayyil. I think both these sums are reckoned very liberally but I don't like to provide myself with less money lest when I get into the heart of Arabia (Inshallah!) I should not be able to do anything for want of funds. You will see that I have now come to a total of £601. I had already put £250 to my own credit here, which leaves me with a deficit of £350. I have asked you for £400 because there are various other unreckoned expenses, my hotel bill here, money to be sent to Fattuh's wife before we start and odds and ends that are certain to crop up. £50 should leave I think an ample margin for all these. I have not yet reckoned in my servants' wages but I don't think there is much to be added on that score, if anything. The camels are mine and I should get for them not much less than I paid, ie £200, and that will pretty nearly cover wages. I could not possibly explain all this in my telegram so I attempted to explain nothing but I hope you will not say No. It's unlikely that you will because you are such a Belloved Father that you never say No to the most outrageous demands - perhaps it is a pity that you don't. I am practically using all my next year's income for this journey, but if I sat very quiet and wrote the book of it the year after I don't see why I should not be able to pay it all back. And the book ought to be worth something if I really get to Nejd and beyond. On the whole I hope you will think it is worth it, since the conditions are so good. I think it is worth it, for that and other reasons. I shall try to keep in some sort of touch with you. At the end of the first 3 or 4 weeks I shall have no difficulty in sending you letters by the Hajj railway and I shall make arrangements to have my letters sent to me from here. After that I fear I shall not be able to hear from you, though I shall try to get one lot of letters at Hayyil. Bassam says he can send them. I shall see. But I think there is no doubt I shall be able to get news out to you. It ought to take about a month from my station near the Hajj railway to Hayyil, that is to say, you will hear of me after the lapse of some 2 to 2½ months. And if I go further south I will try to send out news to somewhere on the Persian Gulf. Anyhow whenever I possibly can find a messenger I will send a letter. I must tell you that there have been very good autumn rains so that we ought to find plenty of surface water and also grass. I shall certainly be another 10 days here before our preparations are finished. Please go on writing here in view of my getting letters by the Hajj railway. I will tell you more of my plans as they develop.
I feel much better after 4 days here and I am beginning to drop deep into the East. All my former friends come and see me and who do you think turned up yesterday? Muhammad al Na'mân and 'Abdallah Father of Camels! I found the old Shaikh sitting waiting for me in an out of door caffé near my hotel this morning, so I sat down and drank coffee with him, while he gave me advice about my journey and offered me letters of introduction to the 'Anazeh shaikhs. These last I shall certainly take, for he has influence with them; but I never tell anyone of the Nejd plans except Muhammad al Bassam. Otherwise the whole of Damascus would be talking of them. So as we sat in the sun there joined us the overseer of the Amir al Hajj and I was introduced to him. The Amir al Hajj, Abd al Rahmân Pasha, comes back from Meccah [Mekkah] on Tuesday I believe, and I hope I shall see him. Yesterday I paid a long call on the wife of the Vali, an exceedingly interesting woman. She was born and brought up in Egypt - her parents were Turks - and talks English almost like an English woman. She reads a great deal, is very intelligent and a keen politician. We talked about the two wars in the Balkans and Mahommadan woman here - she says the latter are like Mahommadan women in a foreign novel, they do nothing, not even fancy work - and it was quite fascinating. She is the only woman of her kind that I have come across. I am going to see her again. I dined last night with the Mackinnons, dear people, and we had a very pleasant evening. Tomorrow a party about whom I know nothing except that I saw him here before and that he is called Ali Effendi, proposes to take me to see the Commandant! I don't mind! There are several other big Mahommadans upon whom I must call, but I have been so busy up to now discussing plans with Bassam.

One thing more I must tell you. I have arranged with Mr Cumberbatch that if I reach anywhere where I can telegraph in Arabic, I shall telegraph to him and he will communicate with you. But of course there is no such place till I get to the coast somewhere. Also I shall write to him from here and tell him exactly what I intend to do and let him know that if at any time you or he want information about me the best person from whom to get it is Bassam. Mr C. could communicate with him privately. He has all the news of the desert, he knows exactly what I am doing and he is sure to know more or less where I am. But don't go to him with questions unless news from me is greatly overdue. I think I can keep you very fairly well informed.

Dearest Belloved Father don't think me very mad or very unreasonable and remember always that I love you more than words can say, you and Mother. Ever your tiresome daughter Gertrude

You know things are working out much better than I expected they would, but don't talk about Nejd to outsiders in case it does not come off.

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