Hotel Centrale Croce Bianca Parma March 26 1899 Dearest Mother. When I arrived yesterday I found that the Albergo della Posta no longer existed. However I hopped into a bus and came [paper torn - approx. 2 cm of line missing] which has proved very comfortable. I had a well earned dinner all by [as above] in a large party of men - you know the way all the men [as above] officers dine at the hotels! However they paid no attention to me so I dined and went to bed extremely sleepy. Today has been deliciously sunny but very cold. I went out early saw the Cathedral and the Baptistery and other objects worthy of interest. It's a dear little place. I felt charmed to be in Italy again. They were all lounging round and having markets and doing the nice silly things Italians do of a Sunday. Moreover it's Palm Sunday and everyone has an olive branch in his hand. Then I wasted a long time in the picture gallery (I quote our Alexandrian guide, it was really very well spent) after which I felt so fired by having seen photographs and copies of the Correggios (which one can't see very well in their domes) that I went back and looked at them all again. They're not quite my sort, but I'm glad I've seen them. They are beautiful, there's no question and I feel now that I understand more what he's up to. I think Papa has seen them - he has seen most things. It's quite extraordinary skilful how the good gentleman manages a dome - the perspective and foreshortening of which must always be very difficult. He makes it into a real Heaven opening above you and the beauty of the clustered angels and the naked figures swimming in and out of clouds is very great. By the time I had seen all this it was only 12.30 so I quickly made up my mind to go by the 1.27 train, came in and lunched, and am just off. I arrive at 12.30 tonight, which I think is too late to knock up my pension so I've telegraphed to the Hotel Bristol for a room - it's the only hotel I know of, the Lushingtons are going there - and I shall proceed at my leisure in the morning to the Via del Babbuino. It's not after all a more expensive plan than having a sleeper and my heart fails me at the thought of staying here till Midnight. Also I shall see the lovely Appenine railway by daylight which is always an advantage.
Goodbye - I wish I had some of my family to love this too. I shall be awfully glad to rejoin Papa. Ever your affectionate daughter Gertrude.