[21 March 1910] Monday Rome [Roma]. Dearest Mother. His Ex has arrived and a greater old dear than he is in Rome you cannot imagine. In the first place they are delighted with the rooms I have taken for them so all is well. I went to lunch with them yesterday and found his Ex brimming over with enjoyment. He had been for a walk on the Pincio as soon as he had washed off the dust of travel and then he had met Bülow and they had fallen into one another's arms in a way, I feel sure, that they had never done during all the years they spent together in Berlin. After lunch he trotted off to the Embassy and Sybil and I went down to the Forum where he presently joined us, as pleased as Punch. Whenever he saw a temple that he knew he rejoiced over it - I'm bound to say he knew most of them. "This I think, my dear Gertrude is the temple of Castor and Pollux - ah, you see my memory is not so bad." He was all for walking up onto the Palatine so we went up, but unfortunately it began to rain and after seeking refuge for some time in Domitian's corridors, we at length gave it up and drove off to the Piazza di Spagna where we had tea. There I left them and they returned again to the Pincio, bless their hearts. I dined with them too. His Ex went off after dinner to play bridge at the Embassy with Louise Duchess of Devonshire and I left Sybil to go to bed and came home and talked to Eugénie till past 11. I had spent the morning at work. I began with the church of S.S. Cosmo and Damiano where I found a palm Sunday service going on and all the people carrying olive branches in procession. I slipped in behind the altar and spent half an hour studying the mosaics which are the most interesting in Rome. The priests and people came in and out changing their rather grimy robes, chatting and laughing, but they paid no attention to me and when High Mass began and I wanted to find my way out they showed me the best way to slip back again round the altar. Then I went to the Capitol Museums and worked at ornament, over which I grew so excited that I flew up to the Terme and went through all the ornament there with immense satisfaction. The weather has unfortunately changed and it rains a good deal. My camera has come, thank you a thousand times. My present plan is to leave here on Sunday and go to Spoleto (where there is a wonderful church) for 2 nights and catch the boat to Spalato [Split] on Tuesday. I don't want to stay there more than 3 days if there is a boat back, but this seems doubtful. Your affectionate daughter Gertrude