Baalbek. Feb 2. Dearest Mother. I arrived at Beyrout [Beyrouth (Beirut)] on Sunday morning at dawn and had an enthusiastic welcome from Fattuh who came out to the boat to meet me. He was followed by a kavass from the Consulate with a letter from Mr Cumberbatch asking me to stay with them - you remember they used to be in Smyrna [Izmir]; they were moved last year. So I went joyfully to the Consulate and stayed there 2 days. The time was spent mostly in hearing from Mr C. and others who [sic] things had gone in Beyrout. It is all like a fairy tale - Beyrout appears to have been a sort of model of constitutional rectitude. They have got 2 very satisfactory deputees, one of them, a Christian, being a really distinguished man. The elections went without a hitch, and - they are now waiting for the reforms to begin! I fancy I shall find that this golden aspect will change seriously for the worse as I get east. The distant towns are, I gather, in the hands of rogues of every kind, but all reactionary, and so far the new regime is a good deal worse than the old in far away places. As soon as I have learnt what is to be learnt in Aleppo [Halab], I shall write Mr Chirol a long letter about Syrian politics and if he doesn't think it worth publishing he can hand it on to you, if you like to see it. I went to see various old friends at the American College and I had long talks with the Vice Consul, Mr Heard, who had just come from Diarbekr [Diyarbakir (Amida)] and took a very gloomy view of the state of affairs out there. The good Cumberbatches were kindness itself and if I had not been so eager to get under way, I should have been very sorry to leave them. I left at 6.30 this morning, Mr Cumberbatch insisting on seeing me off. It was a wonderful morning, Lebanon all gleaming white in the sun and the sea all blue and everything propitious. The time of the Pilgrimage is at hand and the train was packed with Tartars from Bokhara [Bukhara] and those parts going up to Damascus [Dimashq (Esh Sham, Damas)] on their way to Mekka [Makkah]. I think I have never seen so many unBellievable people nor such incredible luggage packed into one carriage as on that train. Mr C. put me into the charge of the policeman on the train (sic) and so left me. This worthy came at the next station and told me that there was not a single place left in the train and they had telegraphed on ahead to say they would take no more passengers. My carriage I may mention was empty but for me! However 2 poeple got in at the next station. The policeman then returned and asked (he spoke English) whether I was an English subject and what my name was. I said I was an English subject and my name was Bell. He said "Do you know what that means in French?" I said: "Cloche." He replied: "I thank you much for that" and with that he disappeared and I saw him no more. I give you the conversation as it occurred but what it was about I haven't an idea. We crossed Lebanon in deep snow and got here at 3. I spent the rest of the afternoon in the temple which is one of the most splendid ruins in the world. Every time I come I think it finer. My aneroid is the greatest amusement to me. It tells me that we are here 3000 ft above the sea which accounts for the bitter cold. Dear me! how I shall freeze for a month in camp!
I leave tomorrow at 5.30 and get to Aleppo in the evening. Ever your affectionate daughter Gertrude