Cairo. Friday 28. Dearest Mother. It is delightful here - exceptionally hot, I might have brought cotton gowns. There are masses of interesting things to see and a great variety of theories to be made about the origins of them, if only one had the time. Maspéro is away, unfortunately, but I'm going to see the Arabic art man tomorrow, I hope. I want a great talk with someone who knows. It is so exciting to get into a new country and find the things one has seen elsewhere taking on different shapes. We are much in request as the diners and lunchers out and I have several invitations for Hugo when he arrives - one to dine at the Agency, which I am sure he will like, and one to lunch with Sir William Garstin. The latter is a nice charming man - he has just been to see us. I like him particularly. He looks as if he had been through all the sorrows in the world, as indeed he has. He says all is well here now - as long as the Sultan holds his hand - but he never remembers such a time as they had last spring. We are going out into the country tomorrow to see Lady Anne Blunt - I wonder what sort of a visit that will be! She answered my suggestion that we should go with the utmost cordiality. I felt I could not not write to her, what with Lord Lovelace and all! The people in the bazaars are extraordinarily polite and friendly when one asks them the way or anything. They generally laugh at me for my Syrian tongue but we understand one another quite well. Mr Kershaw, Elsa will be interested to hear, has just been to see us with his enormously tall American wife and his pretty little sister. I want him to show me a native court if he can. He is going to try. It's rather wonderful being in the middle of this great web of the government of Egypt which one has heard talked of so much.
Did Father tell you Lord Radstock was on board our ship? I went to hear him preach one Sunday evening, a touching performance on account of his child like simplicity and earnestness, but eloquence and argument - niente! He rambled on about missionary experiences of his own and converted pickpockets whom he was proud to number among his dearest friends. He was on his way to India where he was going to convert the heathen all the winter in drawing room meetings - if the heathen come to these things. I skilfully avoided making his acquaintance, for I was convinced he would flairer the atheist and have me converted before we reached Port Said, to say nothing of Father. Wouldn't it have been a bore if we had come back ardent low churchmen, with a regiment of pickpockets invited to stay in Rounton for the ball. Father looks better, but he is easily tired and ought not to do very long days I think. He stayed in this afternoon and saw Countess Bernstorff who came to call. Ever your affectionate daughter Gertrude

The Machells are most friendly and live in such a delightful house, actually on the banks of the Nile.