Delphi. Wed 26. Dearest Mother. I think I shall just have time to send you a word. You heard of our misadventures with the steamer! After all we were not so badly off as we slept at our hotel till 2, and then on the boat from 3.30 till 7. The boat was mainly carrying lambs, Pascal lambs, to Athens [Athinai] - the Greek Easter is next Sunday. From Itea, where we landed, we could see all the great rocks under which Delphi stands, a magnificent situation on a steep hillside. We rode first through a lovely olive wood and were glad to see a train of camels coming along the road - all that remains of the Turkish occupation. Then for an hour (steep) up hill till we reached Delphi soon after 11. All the Dörpfeld party were here, and lunching in our house. We went out and joined them and as it began to rain, came back with them for our coats, but we cd not lunch till they had finished. We were hungry. After lunch we went to the museum and heard the director of the excavations, M. Perdrizet, lecture and Dörpfeld lecture later on upon the Castalian fount - a most unromantic stream but springing from a wonderful great cleft in the rock. Frau Dörpfeld was also there, much bored, we thought, with the antiquities, and not very agreeable. The sacred enclosure itself is quite wonderful. The French have excavated it all and disclosed the great paved sacred way winding up between ruined treasuries of marble and marble streets and the bases of statues. In the middle is the rock of the Sibyl and above it the temple where the priestess gave the oracles. They have also found many lovely statues and friezes which are in the museum. We made great friends with the French boys who are excavating, particularly M. Perdrizet. We found that they had given up their rooms to us, so we felt we cd do no less than ask them to dinner, which we did, and spent a most merry evening. They are fearfully enthusiastic, talk of nothing but archaeology and discuss the principles of art with a conviction which almost makes you believe that such principles exist. M. Perdrizet showed us all over this morning, which was most delightful and let me take many photographs, a thing which is forbidden here. It was a glorious morning with cloud sweeping over the great rocks and into the Castalian cavern and sun in the valley far Bellow us and on the ruins. Unfortunately it has now begun to rain and I'm afraid we may have a wet ride to Arachora [Arakhova]. However it's only 2½ hours.
We all agree that we have had a charming 24 hours here. And now for the wilds!

The village itself is tiny, but our house most clean and comfortable. Like all Greek villages, however small, it contains plenty of Koyreion (coiffeur) and Kaphenon (cafés) I can't think why they can want to have their hair done so much! it leaves no trace on their appearance! Ever your affectionate daughter Gertrude