Monday 9th [9 January 1905] Exquisite day. We passed through the Straits of Messina [Messina, Stretto di] about midnight and saw Etna most beautifully after lunch. Lots of snow, also on the Calabrian hills. Talked to a nice old woman Mrs Ewart about gardening. When we came up from lunch Etna was full in front of us, magnificently beautiful, with snow down to the vinyards [sic]. When we got out of the shelter of the land it was roughish but not enough to matter.