Tues 10. [10 March 1903] We were in the straits between Penang
[Pinang] island and the mainland at 6 when I woke. We anchored
about 7 and H [Hugo] and I went across the harbour in a sampan to
see what we cd get on. We found a Chinese boat, the Pin Seng,
owned by Beng, which was leaving that day and took our berths on
her - awfully smelly, they were loading ngapee. Mr Monroe, an
American, a Florida fruit grower, the Dutchman and 2 Germans a
husband and wife from Osnabr¸ck, all from the Tara, are our travelling
companions; an Italian commis voyageur and an Englishman who is
an agent of the P&O in Singapore. Having transported our luggage
we went on shore, to the Eastern and Oriental Hotel and breakfasted.
Penang looks nice and green but mouldy and even smells mouldy. It
is exclusively inhabited by Chinese. This morning the woolly clouds
were hanging on the top of the wooded hill and far down the sides.
We took a cab - there are rickshas with gaily painted Chinese
dragons in gold on their backs, pulled by one Chinaman) and drove
to the shipping offices and out to the Botanical Gardens. The outskirts
of the town are all big Chinese houses with elaborate gardens and a
great air of prosperity. Saw Chinese ladies with gold ornaments in
their hair and earrings driving in well appointed carriages - all golden
lily feet. The roads led through thick trees, a large sprinkling of cocoa
nuts, and one saw almost nothing but Chinese - a few people with long
black hair hanging loose and very dark skins who were, I suppose
Malays. The gardens lie under the wooded hills. We found 2
rickshas at the gate and got in while our coachman returned to eat,
though carriages are admitted into the gardens. The rickshas took us
up to the orchid houses crossing over a prettily planted grass grown
gorge where a stream comes down. We saw the orchids flowering
and went on up the hill to the waterfall, walking the last bit. There is a
large tank near which a Malay appeared fetched a glass out of a
summer house and gave us delicious water from the stream. We
climbed up to the waterfall - it was absurdly outrageously hot, one
didn't feel uncomfortable but one just dripped all the time. It was a
good waterfall. Then we came back to our rickshas and home
another way past ponds full of white and pink lotus. When we got
back to the hotel I took a ricksha and went out photographing landing
up in a big joss house where I watched the people praying. The
prayers consist of kneeling down or standing and shaking a bamboo
box full of big spelikans each of which has a Chinese character on it,
of throwing up into the air 2 pieces of wood shaped something like the
pigs of an orange, of lighting joss sticks, and of burning a mass of gilt
or coloured sheets of paper which you take out and throw into 2 big
cauldrons outside. You also put joss sticks on the temple door and
on the stands of the 2 grinning dogs in front of the caldrons. There
were some swell women praying, with golden lily feet. We had an
excellent lunch at the hotel. Talked to the Hanburys and a queer little
white haired woman who knows the Swettenhams. Left the Fosters,
Griers, Strakosches etc in the hotel. Got onto our boat about 3 and
found it tidied up. There is a pleasant cheery old Chief Officer who's a
Dutchman I think. Lots of Bullocks, buffaloes, hens on board. It smells
like the Ark. Next door to me in a cabin for 3 are 2 Chinese ladies with
golden lily feet, another very well dressed but with natural feet, 3 small
boys, 2 larger ones, a nurse and a nursemaid and a serving boy.
The nurse and the children sleep sans faÁon in the saloon (sic!) on
the floor. We got off about 5.30, dined at 6 on deck and watched the
pretty wooded shores of the island slipping past. Slept on deck, most
soundly.