Thurs 6. [6 February 1902] Off at 10. Gerald came to fetch us at the
hotel and Cis and her brother to see us off at the station bringing me a
large bunch of violets. Most comfortable journey, lunching on the
train. Bright sun, the coast and the Liparis [Lipari Is. (Eolie)] and the
hills all exquisite. Lots of high perched villages with forts. A delicious
little town on the jutting out peninsula of Mylae, Milazzo is its name.
The out jutting Tyndaris also very fine. Lauriers roses and [space left
blank] growing in the fiumare. Reached Cefalu (Cephaloedium) at 2
and had till 5.30 there. Very fine Norman cathedral, arched porch
flanked by two great towers and above the porch a row of intertwined
arches and a row of pointed arcading above a window. Inside like a
great basilica with magnificent classical columns. In the apse a very
fine mosaic, 1249, a great Christ most impressive - splendid with the
head very finely modelled with just that touch of the Byzantine severity
which is necessary to all beautiful mosaic. Odd that the drawing of the
mosaic of that time shd be so far above Cimabue or Margaritone. In
the ceiling above 4 cherubim in compartments, the evangelists
(symbolical) and something like waves[?] or cloud[?]. Below and at
either side saints standing in rows. A lovely cloister much ruined.
Then up to the acropolis where we saw the famous Sikel polygonal
work with a fine door, the door posts with a slight moulding at the top
like an incipient capital supporting a lintel also moulded. The rest is
Saracen, magnificently situated. Walked down to the port where there
is a bit of old wall. Very picturesque sea front and the big single
masted fishing boats beached on the sand. The rest of the journey
was in the dark. Reached Palermo about 7 - Hotel de France. The
Fosters [see also Forster] are here too.