Mon. Feb 3 [3 February 1902] Scirocco still bother it! A little rain after
breakfast, after which it cleared and became quite fine though Etna
[Etna, Mte] remained covered. Walked about saw the Teatrino
Romano and Father and I looking for the Naumachia went in to the inn
of that name and stood on the balcony over its beautiful lemon
garden. That and the almond flowers, the theatre and the sea made a
view from paradise. Then up to the theatre where I spent the rest of
the morning. One's eyes, one's whole mind are brimmed full of
beauty in that place - the eternal Greek beauty set in an Italian
landscape: I think one can go no further. After lunch we walked up to
Mola and went onto its ruined Saracen fort, but unfortunately the
Scirocco mists blew round us and the view was soon spoiled. The
village is remarkably dirty and full of black pigs - which are almost
indistinguishable from the inhabitants. On the way down gathered a
bunch of the many petalled purple anemone. Mr Blackwood came to
tea. Went afterwards to the theatre and saw the sunset - mostly mists,
but enough of pink to give wonderful shell like colours to the sea - and
the low mists hanging over it towards Messina cast shadows of the
deepest fullest blue. It is equally lovely in every light, but the divinest
view of all is Etna through the broken arch.