Wed. 29. [29 January 1902] Such a morning with the sun shining across the Great Harbour. We walked out all round Ortygia by the edge of the bluest sea, first down the Great Harbour, past Arethusa, close to the sea (it is salt since the earthquake) with papyrus growing in it, then up the Little Harbour and back to the Hotel. Then we went to see the Duomo which is a temple built up, and the remains of the Temple of Diana, and the Museum where there are interesting pots and most lovely coins. And so home to lunch. Afterwards we drove out to the mainland, past the Agora with its simple column to the Latomia dei Capucini - that tragic place which is now a fruit garden full of oranges, lemons, flowering almonds, pomegranates, olives with a real garden of roses and lavender on its edges. Here the Athenians sighed their lives away out of sight and earshot of the blue waters they had ruled and lost. So on to San Giovanni where we saw boring catacombs and the place where St Paul is supposed to have preached. And then to the Latomia del Paradiso where we explored the Ear of Dionysius and saw great caves with columns and stalactites of limestone - but the greater part of the columns and arches of rock, here and at the Capucini were tumbled down by an earthquake in the 17th cent. and lie in ruins on the floor. And then to the exquisite Greek Theatre bathed in sun; from the curving seats you look out all over the Great Harbour and away to the Island crowned with houses and churches. Above the theatre is a Nymphaeum and above that rock roads cut into the rock and honeycombed with tombs and niches for tablets - this was the great Street of Tombs which runs all through the necropolis of Neapolis. We went down and past the great Ara, the altar of Hiero II, to the Amphitheatre, Roman but very charming. On the other side of the road is an old columned cistern made in the Street of Tombs. We then drove over to Scala Greca where we had a very lovely view across the bay towards Megara, but Etna [Etna, Mte] was almost hidden in light cloud. So back to the Greek Theatre to see the sunset and home. In the evening after dinner, Frau Politi, a nice old German, comes in and tunes Chopin and Schubert on the piano. ["Greek Theatre Syracuse [Siracusa] Jan 29" written on page, but attachment missing.]