Wed. 29. [29 April 1896] Up early and having everything ready I went
out and did some shopping for Caroline, then to the Bargello - really
the Florentine art at its best is the most delicious in the world.
Heavenly Luca della Robbias - those faience things have a dainty
exquisiteness that is given[?] to nothing else and what a sense of
lovely form even in his nameless scholars; some perfect Minos,
marble and gold, a fine young Medici head by Verrocchio, and then
all the Donatellos; the Benvenutos and the John of Bologna Mercury -
what a place! Back to the inn where I found Caroline struggling with
her boxes. We left at 11.40 and had a hot journey to Pisa. Bought
lunch at Empoli and had it in the train. Arrived at Pisa at 2.30, Hotel
Victoria on the Lung Arno. Tea and out to the divine Cathedral. The
Campo Santo looked too lovely, full of spirea bushes and roses and
lilacs and orchises [sic] in the grass. Looked at the frescoes in a
splendid light. Then into the Baptistery - that Niccola pulpit is one of
the most magnificent things I know - and sarcophagus or no
sarcophagus, very Greek. Much finer I think than the Siena one.
(Looked at the sarcophagi in the Campo Santo - saw the Rape of
Proserpine which is I think the one Vasari says Niccola copied)
Climbed to the top of the tower and had an exquisite sunset view -
down to the Sea and up to the mts - too lovely. Delightful American at
our inn who told a friend that he thought this church finer than the
Madeleine because it cd seat more people and that the doors of it
were as fine as anything we cd make now. [Pressed flower missing
from following page, "Pisa Ap 29 1896".]