Thurs. 23. [23 April 1896] Fine, got up early and breakfasted in
Caroline's room. Then out while she dressed to the Duomo and the
Palazzo. She and I afterwards went to the Pal. and saw the frescos;
again struck by the fine Memmi Virgin enthroned and the delicious
freshness of the Taddeo di Bartolos. The Lorenzetti frescos
extraordinarily original - very Greek, but I think wanting in perfection of
arrangement. But the Good Government is delicious - I wish the other
had not been so much spoilt. Then to the Duomo - dear, what a
masterpiece that pulpit is! And the Pinturrichio frescoes one blaze of
youth and life and colour. After lunch to the Academy which is a
confusing place. I seem to disentangle Matteo from the others by his
exquisite sense of beauty, and Sano di Pietro for a greater
earnestness of religious feeling, but the rest were more or less lost in
a general Byzantine haze. The Sodoma Eve is very lovely, and the
Pacchiarotto {Presentation} Visitation. Fine early Sodoma descent
from the Cross. Took a carriage and drove to S. Domenico - I like the
Sodoma St Catherine and there's a beautiful Matteo Virgin. Then to
S. Francesco where we saw the chapel full of Sodomas and a lovely
Pacchia Annunciation. Home to tea after which we dawdled about,
bought photographs and saw the view from beneath the Hospital,
exquisite green and white of fruit trees and a low sun setting behind
clouds.