Mon. 20. [20 April 1896] Breakfasted in my room and out early to see
the earliest Rafael fresco - only the upper part of which is his for he
was called away to Rome [Roma] and died there and Perugino
finished it. Picked up Caroline Mrs Needham and Evelyn and went to
S. Bernardino where we saw a faÁade made by Agostino Ducci, quite
exquisite, then to the gallery where we met all the others and where I
loved the early Perugians, Lorenzo di Fiorenzo and Bonfigli above
all. Fine early Rafael Adoration very Peruginesque, beautiful Spagna
and fine Pinturrichio. But I don't like Perugino - he's awfully maudlin.
Lunch after which Evelyn Needham and I walked down to the
Etruscan tombs of the Volumnii - awfully interesting. A deep cave with
emblems of death hanging from the ceiling, little compartments in one
of which all the urns of the family with the people sitting up on their
elbows over their own ashes. Medusa heads and a beautiful head of
Apollo with snakes over the door. Beautifully carved - almost Greek
but heads too big for their bodies. Home in the rain and in a hurry.
Hawthorn out. Tea. The Needhams, Mrs Hope and Lady Alice left.
Pleasant evening we 5.