Sat 28. [28 March 1896] Out early and to St Mark's where we looked
first at the outside (saw the Lily capitals and the ornament over the
door left of the big door) then at the inside where we looked at the
mosaics. Very beautiful as a whole and very beautiful separately. I
think the archaicness of them much increases their solemnity. Beauty
of the Mount of Olives, 3 times repeated for the 3 times Christ prayed,
and the last time he descends and wakes the sleeping apostles -
they other[?] twice they are already standing up. And all those long
robed saints and martyrs on their gold background are wonderfully
impressive and everywhere the Christ in the centre of all. Then to the
Accademia where I saw and loved the Carpaccio St Ursulas and the
Titian Presentation and the Bellinis, specially G. Bellinis 5 allegories
and a Madonna and child near them against a green canopy; the
Vivarinis like Byzantine mosaics, straight and solemn; the Veroneses
a wealth of life and colour; the Tintorets striving after the unattainable -
and just not attaining it. A lovely one of 3 robed judges kneeling
before the figure of Justice in the clouds and another of 3 doges(?)
(standing) presented to the Madonna. Lunch at the Vapore and home
to a lesson at 2. At 3.30 out by Gondola to S Maria Fermosa which
photographed the Ponte del Paradiso, the archway over the Via del
P. To tea with Miss Fletcher - lovely palace, hideous mother, Miss F.
very agreeable. Visited the lace works in our own house. Dined at
the Vapore and to the play where we heard Cavalleria and Pagliacci.