Tues. 24. [24 March 1896] Spent the morning walking about Vicenza.
Saw the Duomo - not interesting - and S. Corona (where there is a
thorn of the true crown!); it contains a very fine Mantegna, St Mary
Magdalen enthroned between 4 saints and a lovely G. Bellini
Baptism. We talked to a dear old priest who asked us if we were
Germans and when he heard we were English, congratulated us on
coming from Grande 'Ingliterra. Walked about and looked at
palaces; the Gothic buildings very elaborate and lovely. There is a
charming little carved palace of Pegafetta a companion of Magellan,
with roses round the bottom of it and the motto Il n'est rose sans
espine. I don't, no I don't care for the Palladio buildings - the shape[?]
of them is fine, the details most lifeless. The stucco is falling off the
imitation rocks of which they are built - revealing the dinted brick
below. In S. Stefano saw a most lovely Palma Vecchio, a virgin and
child between 2 saints, one in armour. Very noble. Then to the
Museo Civico where there is a delicous Cima, a virgin and child under
a bower of vines and 2 saints. Very fine Montagnas - I like Montagna,
he's a good sensible sort of painter, serious of beautiful composition,
passable colour and plenty of grave feeling; also a good
Buonconsiglio a Pieta with a fine landscape and a Mocetto, not very
interesting. After an early lunch climbed up the hill to the church on top
where we found a friendly monk who professed himself willing to show
us the Morone as soon as his superiors were safely in the choir and
meantime took us through a charming little cloister to a balcony from
whence we had a lovely view over the plain bathed in sunshine
towards the distant towers of Padua [Padova] - Venice [Venezia] he
said could be seen but he himself had never seen it, Verona lay
behind the hills. In the Refectory was a fine Palma Vecchio - a
miraculous supper of St [space left blank] with the Christ seated
beside him and the regular Palma attendants (one a portrait of
himself) dogs and balconied terrace in front. Then back to the church
where the Morone was displayed - much the finest we had seen, a
Pieta with 2 saints and the Magdalen, very touching heads full of a
feeling of Botticelli; the Virgin with the Christ on her knees very simple
and splendid. We went down to the station and left at 3 for Castel
Franco. Passed a delightful walled town on the way - Citadella.
Castel Franco also walled, 4 square with a tower at each corner, a tall
campanile set in the wall and a gate tower. Delightful sun. Went to the
Albergo della Spada and from thence straight to the Church. There
we saw the great Giorgione, the Virgin and Child under a canopy
beneath S. Liberale in armour and S. Francesco in a monks dress,
the Stigmata on his hands and feet and one hand pressed against the
hidden wound in his breast. Behind them a red velvet wall and above
a lovely landscape with trees and hills and buildings, 2 little figures
and a blue background, ? the sea? Virgin in green with a red cloak
over the r shoulder and falling across her knees emphasizing the
beautiful attitude; a green and blue carpet hangs down beneath her
feet and under it a striped carpet, the canopy lined with gold and
brown brocade. A white cloth over her head, beautiful brooding
peasant face. The child looking down, face much foreshortened. Her
l hand on the arm of the seat. S Liberale splendid figure, a flag in l
hand, r hand hanging down and holding something - both hands
exquisite as are S Francis'. The helmet casts a deep shadow over
his eyes, splendid firm young face looking straight out of the picture,
full of thoughtful resolution. St Francis expression holy and pitiful -
exquisite stretched out L hand. Altogether marvellous picture. Sky a
good deal clouded with dirt, black and white flagged pavement.
Walked round the walls and climbed the gate tower whence
magnificent view over the plain set with campaniles and the Alps
touched with snow. Then back to the picture. Then to the site of
Giorgione's house on the wall - the present house is modern. Vines
growing up inside against the corner tower, daffodils in the grass, a
red Pirus Japonica just coming into flower. Dined at the spada and
caught our train for Padua at 7. Last sight of C. Franco with its towers
standing out against a crimson sunset. Reached Padua at 9, Albergo
Croce d oro. Chocolate. Walked about in the moonlight, arches and
towers looking like a fairy town. Came back through the tiniest street
inappropriately called Via Gigantessa.