Thurs. 20. [20 April 1893] Walked about Avignon, saw the Museum and drove round the walls which are very beautiful with a deep and heavy sort of crenelated cornice supporting the topmost parapet. Left for Arles at 12. Passed Tarascon of holy memory - alas poor Tartarin! Reached Arles at 12.30, lunched and went out. Charming cloisters of St Trophymus with tiny double columns and each capital carved with a different story; then to the theatre which is very wonderful - smaller than I expected with tall pillars standing between which the author of the play used to appear. The Venus was found here and some charming dancing nymphs in the Museum came from here. The amphitheatre looks smaller than Nimes though it is bigger - it is certainly much deeper and more ruined. Odd effect produced by 3 square towers surmounting it and built in the middle ages when the place was a fortress, to resist the Saracens. Wandered through crooked streets looking at old houses and lovely women, then down to Aliscamps - Elysii Campis - where between rows of poplars and cypresses lie range after range of stone coffins. People were buried here till the plague of Marseille in the 18th century. At the end of the avenues a ruined church, of all ages, built on the foundations of a Roman temple - curious jumble of religions here. Wrote letters in the theatre with children playing on the broken steps and belles Arlesiennes passing through on their way to the gardens beyond. Went to a comic performance of Hermani in the evening. [Dried flower - Thyme? - attached to page.]