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Diary entry by Gertrude Bell

Reference code
GB/2/13/1/2/29
Creator
Bell, Gertrude Margaret Lowthian
Creation Date
Extent and medium
1 entry, paper
Language
English
Location
Coordinates

30.585164, 36.238414

Mon. Dec. 29 [29 December 1913] We got off at 6.30 and I walked to the top of al Fehdawi where there are Saf. ins. Saw our road from there and also the smoke of the Arab camps. We crossed a ghadir and passed over a low ridge. Here the men heard the sound of shots - an alarm among the Arabs. M. [Muhammad] feared that they would fizz u alaina in the baida at our feet. We left Abu 'Ali on the ridge to meet them and stopped ourselves. Soon a horseman appeared on the ridge and greeted us with the customary shot. Baihr[?] met Abu 'Ali and all was well. They were Adamat, of the Zubaid. We lighted a fire and waited for the horseman. Abu 'A. called out "Sug" but M. Bidna nasallim 'aly al khteyyal[?]." So we sat down with him and exchanged news "Ahl al Shimal wain?" Wallah ghadi min al Azraq. "Min al Azraq?" "Eh billah." M. "Hayyin hayyin. Tawakkil Allah." "Wa al Sirhan?" "Al Sirhan bil 'Amud wa ghad." "Bil Hamad?" Eigh. "... ma ........ al 'Anazeh?" La billah. Then to us, where we had come from, had we seen Arabs? and where? no one else? and so on. Where had we slept, where was water? So after 40 minutes after we had given him bread figs and tobacco, we went on. He told us that the Serdiyyeh were rahilin that day and presently we saw them coming across our path. A horseman rode out but walking, and came up to us, greeted us and presently took his cartridge out of his rifle and slung it over his shoulder. He was dressed in a blue cloth jacket. Then came several more and finally the shaikh, Ghalib ibn Mit'ab al Gauj[?] and insisted on our spending the night with him. M. also insisted and I gave way reluctantly though it was only 11 o'clock. So we camped and meantime drank coffee with Ghalib. After lunch I walked about, photographed, sat with the women. Ghalib's wife and sister very pretty women. A small son called Sa'ud. Sat with the men and heard of ruins S of Burqa [Qasr el Burqu]. Doctored a man with a horribly bad foot. Didn't I know a cure from my book? I knew how to read? God sent me. Temp. at highest 56. Mit'ab was a very well known person. New moon. Flocks coming in. Fires in the buyut. A great many questions as to why I came and why travelled in the cold. Ghalib explained at great length how all foreigners wanted to know the history of the land, English, French all. An old man told me of 2 ruins S of Burqa - one must be I think Graham's Warran of which noone has heard. A road runs from Azraq [Qasr el Azraq] to Nemara and Burqu. Extremely nasty dinner with Ghalib - sheep and bread in a greasy stew which he mixed up for me with his fingers, saying "Kull hu[?] tayyib - ishtaghalthu be idi." After dinner we tallked of maladies, and of a Sherari who learnt all medicine from a Mughrebi and cures every ill. Then compared rifles. I gave Ghalib a cloak and under robe of silk, coffee and sugar. Noise and talk all night.

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