Thurs Ap 15. [15 April 1909] Left the camp on the Tigris at 6.30. At
6.45 we rode over a .... canal from the Nahr of El Gaim to the Tigris
and immediately after came to Kudesia which I planned. The interior
of the octagonal enclosure is empty but for a few low mounds. There
are most of them towards the NW side. In wet years they sow all over
the inside which accounts for the disappearance of the unburnt brick
walls. We rode out of the further gate of Kudesia at 10.20 and got to El
Gaim at 11.30. It is a truncated cone of solid pebble and concrete no
door and no inside. It stands on the S side of the Nahr and I think it is
no more than an 'alama for the beginning of the Nahr. I see no reason
to suppose it to be older than the canal. Half way to Samarra there is
a large enclosure going down to the river - a ruined oblong with
towers in it. Just outside it to the N is a bit of wall - perhaps a gate? -
partly standing. Apse covered niches can be seen in it. It is of burnt
brick. There are traces of another enclosure parallel with this one.
The whole complex is called Ej Jemal. Quite near Samarra is
another enclosure by the river called Ej Jebariyyeh. The whole
ground from Ej Jemal is broken by mounds of ruins. Samarra looked
like a delightful toy, its gold dome glistening and the tiled dome and
minarets and big S gate of the mosque lifting themselves out of the
enclosure of the walls. The mosque and Malwiyyeh behind. These
walls have just been rebuilt by the Persians. Got into camp at 1 - it is
pitched in a delightful place high up above the river. The Tigris is
filling and below my camp some trees are standing in the river. All the
ground is of pebbles bound together with earth. Lunched and rested
till 2.30. Then went to the big mosque and found that Herzfeld's plan is
woefully bad. Photographed and took notes and climbed the
Malwiyyeh from which there is a wonderful view. Quantities of
earthenware pottery, uncoloured but covered with every variety of
simple pattern. Came in at 5 and wrote letters. Delicious evening.