Mon 17. [17 April 1905] Many clouds and Mikhail still raging. The sun
came out and it was hot and sticky. The men loaded very slowly and
I had to watch every finger's turn. We got off at last about 8.15. The
road lay through the Amanian Gates, a very striking bit of valley with
ruins (wall or acqueduct? [sic]) across the narrowest part and the big
Toprak Kala [Toprakkale] on its hill at the end. I think Kiepert is wrong
here. He puts T. Kala in the middle and Kala K. at the end. There is
only one and is {Kala} Toprak K. Had to wait for the kadsh at every
step. The Kala Tshai very full and I was determined not to repeat
yesterday's experience so I waited again for them and myself rode
backwards and forwards bringing them over. We got over all right.
Lovely country with the great hills to the right, the gorge above
Geuzenne especially fine. Lunched by the roadside and got to
Osmaniyeh [Osmaniye] about 2.30. Camped in a big stretch of grass
before the town. It lies charmingly at the opening of a gorge, trees
and gardens poplars and white houses. A military person came
down and conversed with me in Turkish, then the Kaimakam ditto and
finally the Binibashi, a Shami, who also talked French. He
subsequently sent me the following heavenly card: Mademoise{lle}l
Miss Je suis tres charmant De faire votre connaicence je spere De
bon Dieu De vous garder De tout mauvais et De tous mal. L.....
Kourchid. Walked about the town which has a little bazaar and is very
charming and Turkish. Delicious moon over the hills near full.