Mon. 30. [30 January 1905] Off at 8, hard frost but bright. Visited the
ruins of a Crusader church, bad rough work. Clouds blew up and it
looked very threatening but it only rained a little. Got into Jerusalem
[(El Quds esh Sherif, Yerushalayim)] soon after 10, and went to the
Consulate for my letters. Went to Kaminitz where I was made
welcome. After lunch my mules and baggage came in. Paid off
Sim'an who will not do for me. Mr Dickson came to call and told me
Mark Sykes and his wife were here. Called on Mme Jacowlew [i.e.
Yacovlew] who told me a pretty story of a Russian pilgrim. He had
been a forcat and had done a number of years of Siberia. When he
was let out he came here with his old mother to expiate. An Arab
rogue hit him on the head because he refused to give him bakhshish
and near killed him. He went to the hospital and when he came out
wanted to go away. Jacowlew said no he must stop to give evidence
ag the rogue who had been caught. He demurred and finally said:
"No, let him go. I too am a criminal." They usually have 10,000 a
year. This year fewer because of the war. Then called on the Sykes
who are lodged half in tents half in a servant's house. They kept me
to dinner and we had a very merry evening. Mark Sykes has paid
£360 for his animals: 8 mules, 2 donkeys and 4 horses!