Sun 29. [29 January 1905] Off about 8, still bitter cold but a bright sun.
Took a mare and went into the town which is very picturesque with
arched streets. There are the remains of a Crusader church with a
fine west door but all falling down. It has been converted into a
mosque, but is now undergoing repair and in its future stage will
probably have lost all interest. Came out of the town and rode to the
foot of Gerizim up which I walked in half an hour. At the top saw the
Samaritan sacrifice place and the Samaritan Sakhrah, a big sloping
rock with a cave at one end of it. There are the ruins of a Crusader bi'r
and castle and also they say of an octagonal church but these last I
cd not distinguish. Very fine view, bright east windy colouring,
Hermon [Sheikh, Jebel esh] and the Mountains of Ajlun and the sea.
So down to Jacob's Well which has been enclosed by the Greeks
and planted with olives. Narcissus growing under them between
carved mouldings and capitals of a Crusader church, Gerizim
shouldering his rocky slopes up behind, on top the Wely and to the
right on the side of Ebal the little village from which the Woman of
Samaria had come to draw water. An old Greek monk drew me water
from the well, which is covered in, and left me. One cd see the picture:
"Our fathers have worshipped on this mountain" and the answer of the
Oriental mystic "Neither on this mountain nor on any other for the
whole world is the altar of God." Rode away up the valley which is full
of the recollection of that dreamer who was to change the morality of
the world - to reset it. At the top of the long valley the road ceases and
we got onto a stony track. It was 10 by the time I left Jacob's Well and
I then discoved Sim'an had sent the mules on to Bireh [Bira], a good
32 miles. Charming country, bare and rocky but planted with olives.
Lunched near a spring from which the women of the neighbouring
village were drawing water. Khan el Lubban is deserted and ruined.
A very long slope leads to the top of the hill and here the road begins
again on a great upland. Entered the valley of the Haramiyeh, very
delightful, sheltered and full of olives. Sim'an suffering a great deal
from the cold. Very long ride down the valley and up by a winding
road. The sweet smelling white clematis flowering in masses,
otherwise few flowers. Sim'an picked me one up and we pressed up
the hill. At the top it grew dark we rode across a plateau and by a little
rain water lake and in the dark came to Bireh where in the dark we
found my camp by a little khan. Very sheltered and pleasant.