Thurs 19. [19 January 1905] Up early and fitted my saddle onto the
Seglawy. Spent an agitated morning looking after mules. After lunch
rode with 'Abdullah Khouri to Ba'abda, which is the seat of the
Lebanon govt. We passed through a valley of mulberries and then
climbed up a hillside by a narrow rocky valley. The govt. house is
finely situated at the top of the hill, looking over the whole plain and
the curious sands and Beirut [Beyrouth] and the sea. I went up to
'Abdullah's office and was there introduced to the Pasha, Muzaffar.
He is by origin a Pole, his father was a Polish prince. He talked
French very well and was very polite. He used to be Master of the
Sultan's Horse, and regrets C'ple [Istanbul (Constantinople)]. He
hopes however to return. 'Abdullah says he is a worthy man and very
well meaning but he tries to do too much all at once. I also was taken
into the Council where I talked Arabic with the President. 12 Members,
2 for each of the religions of the Lebanon. Then to the Civil and
Criminal Courts, 6 members ditto. 'Abdullah confided to me that he
was sick of life for he had reached the top of his career while he was
still young and has nothing more to hope for. He wishes to emigrate
and refuses to marry a Syrian. He also says that everything here is
interest and bakhshish. Called on Mrs D. Hay and settled with El
Derwish for the mules. Very dear - 3 mej. a day and the return paid -
16 days in all.