Fri. 27 [27 February 1903] At 5.30 Ah Lu woke us, we got up in the dark and had a scanty breakfast. The ferry left at 7 so we transported ourselves and our goods onto it and squeezed ourselves up near the machinery in the bows. We got to Pakukku [Pakokku] at 10 and found the Agent, a big Englishman, waiting for us. He said he had ordered a boat and it was coming. All the inhabitants of Pakukku seem to be engaged in making fairy-prince boats of teak, high sterns of carved wood in which the steerer sits, lovely lines and upturned prows like a gondola. We got off about 11 in a tiny boat just big enough to hold us. H [Hugo] and I lay under a bamboo matting roof lunched and went to sleep. Read La mort des dieux. At 2.30 we reached Nyaungu but decided to go on and try for Pagahn [Pagan] of which we could see the pagodas. But after a little we thought it wiser to go back. So we punted back and saw all the pretty river life, the teak rafts with a village of bamboo sheds on them and poles with streamers of white paper flying from them, and the big barges and the fishers who are bound straight to Awidzee, the lowest tell. We arrived about 4, found one waiting for us with telegrams on the bank and our DB quite close behind the palm trees on a little hill. So we had tea while our luggage was brought up in a bullock cart, and established ourselves. Charming teak house raised high up - we were on the 1st floor with a big balcony. Then we walked down into the village through deep sand and bought lacquer. H turned back, but I went on through a huge palm grove and watched a man climb up a tree by rope ladders to hang up the bowl for catching the palm sap. And so through all the monasteries, their 7 roofs silhouetted against the sky. The monks sitting outside in the cool dark. So home, dinner and bed. Our bathwater comes from the Irrawaddy. It's quite black. Pagahn from our balcony looks like Oxford. [Written at the top of second page of entry:] Hugetthaik is a Burmese place!