Wed 18. [18 February 1903] Woke at 6 and again saw Kinchinjunga
[Kanchenjunga] and went up above to photograph him for the last
time. Wrote to Caroline looking at him out of window. Nanga and the
coolies arrived and the Mehtar. We have an excellent boy in the
hotel, too, Jitman. Went into the bazaar and bought turquoises - Yeh
good wallah? said they. Very sorry to leave the hills, Nunga and
Jitman. Travelled down with the Birds and Mr Stone. Heavy thunder
and rain. At Kurseong [Karsiyang] there got in a tea planter. He said
the people about there were nominally Hindus but not like the Plain
people. They have their own caste rules, eat chicken eggs and goat,
but not sheep or beef. They are delightful to deal with. Best tea is
from 4000 ft to 4500. The gardens in the Plains are the oldest in India,
40 or 50 years, but the tea plants are now dying and are not being
replanted as it's too low. The lower jungle clad slopes are called the
Terai. They are full of tiger, leopard, lynxes of sorts, but you can't get
at them because the jungle is so thick. The govt loses on the wood
here, for as soon as they trees begin to grow they are choked by
creepers. The tigers will sieze the bullocks out of a cart and carry
them off; the leopard the dog at your heels and you never see him.
We dined at Saliguri [Shiliguri]. The country directly beneath the
Terai is very unhealthy and feverish. Met Mr Paul who came into our
carriage and talked. He showed me a Thibetan sun dial stick. H
[Hugo] and I had a carriage to ourselves. Very stuffy.