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Diary entry by Gertrude Bell

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Gertrude Bell
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Wed 14. [14 January 1903] Left at 8 and drove out to Eklinji [Eklingji].
First through a plain all cultivated, the corn green and high. Then up
the bare hillside with yellow flowered shrubs on it to the top of the
pass. Here we changed horses and were like to stay because our
new horses jibbed so much. Down[?] the ghat we came into a wide
valley with 2 lakes in it, the second being our destination[?]. Saw
some Bhils, of a much more Tibetan type. Stopped at the ghat where
we were met and taken round by some obliging people to Nagda.
The whole lake set with temples. The furthest seemed to be the best
and most elaborate in workmanship. It was partly ruined and empty.
But in some was the Linga. In the biggest an enormous statue of
Bappa Rao who was brought up here after he was orphaned, .......
cattle and consorted with the Bhils - the next temple had the regular
court and porticoed sikra[?]. Back to the ghat (one tiny ruined temple
in the water surrounded by rushes and white waterbirds) where we
met the Naib Hakim and lunched - we[?] then went through the gate,
Eklingi is walled round, and saw a little house for the Jojus[?] with a
shrine and a living spring in it, and by a charming path under trees
and oleander thickets to the village where the sacred cows and
Shiwa's bulls live. At the temple gate we took off shoes and stockings
and walked through the pricky dust into the temple court. Great tubs
for the temple ghee. The court was full of little sikras and shrines and
canopied bulls in stone and bronze. The temple servants (and
indeed everyone on the road all day) carried swords. A great
function was going on. We were taken to a side door where we cd
see the black 4 headed Linga with naked boys, their mouths covered
with cloth lest they shd breathe on it, pouring water over the Linga.
Trays of burning incense and a Gosain mouthing prayers dressed in
a gold robe and a short gold and scarlet peaked cap. In the portico 4
Joju[?] were beating drums. This is the place where Bappa's cow
dropped here ....... and the sage Harita told him that it was the spot
appointed by Shiwa for his temple. Flower weavers in the court. So
home and got in at 3.30. The Rana's secretary Saligram Viasji, writes
Hugo long letters to ask how we are getting on and came to see us
yesterday - a most obliging person. There is a Vishnu shrine,
Nathdwara, beyond Eklinji with a high priest who is a hereditary
incarnation of Vishnu - Sir Alfred Lyall came into collision with him. I
wish we had got there. The Rana is high priest of Eklingi, goes out on
occasions to worship there when he takes the place of the gosain.
[Written at top of third page of entry:] Tod. I p184

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