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Diary entry by Gertrude Bell

Reference code
Bell, Gertrude Margaret Lowthian
Creation Date
Extent and medium
1 entry, paper
Lyall, Alfred Comyn
India ยป Udaipur

24.585445, 73.712479

Wed 14. [14 January 1903] Left at 8 and drove out to Eklinji [Eklingji]. First through a plain all cultivated, the corn green and high. Then up the bare hillside with yellow flowered shrubs on it to the top of the pass. Here we changed horses and were like to stay because our new horses jibbed so much. Down[?] the ghat we came into a wide valley with 2 lakes in it, the second being our destination[?]. Saw some Bhils, of a much more Tibetan type. Stopped at the ghat where we were met and taken round by some obliging people to Nagda. The whole lake set with temples. The furthest seemed to be the best and most elaborate in workmanship. It was partly ruined and empty. But in some was the Linga. In the biggest an enormous statue of Bappa Rao who was brought up here after he was orphaned, ....... cattle and consorted with the Bhils - the next temple had the regular court and porticoed sikra[?]. Back to the ghat (one tiny ruined temple in the water surrounded by rushes and white waterbirds) where we met the Naib Hakim and lunched - we[?] then went through the gate, Eklingi is walled round, and saw a little house for the Jojus[?] with a shrine and a living spring in it, and by a charming path under trees and oleander thickets to the village where the sacred cows and Shiwa's bulls live. At the temple gate we took off shoes and stockings and walked through the pricky dust into the temple court. Great tubs for the temple ghee. The court was full of little sikras and shrines and canopied bulls in stone and bronze. The temple servants (and indeed everyone on the road all day) carried swords. A great function was going on. We were taken to a side door where we cd see the black 4 headed Linga with naked boys, their mouths covered with cloth lest they shd breathe on it, pouring water over the Linga. Trays of burning incense and a Gosain mouthing prayers dressed in a gold robe and a short gold and scarlet peaked cap. In the portico 4 Joju[?] were beating drums. This is the place where Bappa's cow dropped here ....... and the sage Harita told him that it was the spot appointed by Shiwa for his temple. Flower weavers in the court. So home and got in at 3.30. The Rana's secretary Saligram Viasji, writes Hugo long letters to ask how we are getting on and came to see us yesterday - a most obliging person. There is a Vishnu shrine, Nathdwara, beyond Eklinji with a high priest who is a hereditary incarnation of Vishnu - Sir Alfred Lyall came into collision with him. I wish we had got there. The Rana is high priest of Eklingi, goes out on occasions to worship there when he takes the place of the gosain. [Written at top of third page of entry:] Tod. I p184

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