Mon 22. [22 December 1902] Got to Jeypore [Jaipur] at 5 - very cold.
Drove to the hotel - Rustum's, had some tea and went to bed. H.
[Hugo] in a tent. Breakfasted at 9.30, drove round to the Kaisari Hind
and picked up Susan and Sibyl and went out shopping. Jeypore is
all pink stucco and rather shoddy but the streets are wonderfully
interesting because of the people. Went to Zoraster's and shopped
necklaces - with the advice of Sir Alfred Haslam who said "The things
here are very good - I've just been buying some myself." Then to the
School of Art and so home. Found the Russells at lunch to our great
joy. Watched some performing parrots shooting off cannons and
fetching leaves off trees. Drove out and saw the Raja's palace, an
absurd stucco place with big gardens in which there are elaborate
fountains where the water never flows - till the Viceroy comes. They
were embroidering a gold tissue piece of stuff for the Viceroy at a
cost of 20000 rupees. Allegator [sic] tank, disgusting and smelly.
Wonderful stables with 100s of horses in them, half open air and a
great exercising ground. They are bedded on sand. Then to see the
man eating tigers, very fierce and smelly and so to Zoraster's where
we had tea with Sir A Haslam and bought lots of enamels. The tea
consisted of sweetmeats curry and fruit and soda water. He
apologized for there not being enough variety of dishes - there were
some 20 - saying we ought to have had 100. Merry dinner with the
Russells.