Wed 26. [26 March 1902] Woke at 7 and found that we were just
coming into the harbour. Got up in haste. A stiff wind. Fritz Unger met
me and took me through the Custom House without difficulty. His
brother drove me up, through the clean prosperous German Colony to
Pross's Hotel on top of the hill. Most lovely position - I am absolutely
alone. Unpacked, lunched, went out and gathered broom, scarlet
ranunculus, flax, cistus and blue irises and then decided to walk down
to the town. Pross Junior accompanied me, an amiable half wit. Went
first to Herr Wasserzug who is a religious maniac of sorts but a very
pleasant man. We found him in his shirt sleeves carpentering. He
took me upstairs to his English wife, a very nice woman and advised
me as to teachers. She had heard of me from Dr Cropper. So I
started off again and called on Mr Monaghan whom I roused from his
siesta I think and who was somewhat embarrassed as to how to
entertain me. I carried off some books from him and went off in search
of Abu Nemrud. I went first to his house directed by the wife of the
Syrian clergyman, then his daughter took me to the bazaar where I
found him in his shop, a respectable old party, and we soon came to
terms. Next I went to the house of Husein Effendi, Abbas's son in law,
a man with the face of all the mystics that ever were who received me
most kindly. It was odd getting into the little country store and finding
oneself suddenly in the heart of the Persia of dreamers and mystics.
So I rode home and got in after 6. I picked up a horse on my way
back but not for a permanency.