Tues [i.e. Thursday] 22. [22 August 1901] Left the hut at 2.15, perfectly clear and starry with some foolish lightning away in the east. Walked up an arete to the Dossen Sattel 3.15. Down a couloir cutting some steps and across the head of the Rosenlaui glacier. The east was white, at 4.30 we reached the Wetterkessel at the foot of the ascent and put out our lanterns. Up snow not steep, to the Wellhornsattel 5.20 where we rested 15 minutes and eat. Up snow again and reached the Wetterhornsattel at 6.20, the sun came red on the Wetterhorn and rushed down the slopes about 1/2 hour before we got there. Magnificent view of the Schreckhorn, the Mönch the Eiger and the Jungfrau. 6.25 up the last snow aretes, very steep, and got to the top at 7-7.20: it consists of a snow cornice. Down on the saddle at 7.45 and breakfasted. Saw the mists lift from Grindelwald and a pair of mountain crows much disturbed by us. Down a very long couloir to the Blechstein Hut 10.15-10.45 and so down flowery slopes, across the Upper Grindelwald Glacier and down the Milchbach to Grindelwald which we reached at 1. Lunched by some nice Belgians, had a bath and went to sleep. At dinner a talkative Englishwoman was on my other side. Eiger Hotel.