Tues [i.e. Thursday] 22. [22 August 1901] Left the hut at 2.15, perfectly
clear and starry with some foolish lightning away in the east. Walked
up an arete to the Dossen Sattel 3.15. Down a couloir cutting some
steps and across the head of the Rosenlaui glacier. The east was
white, at 4.30 we reached the Wetterkessel at the foot of the ascent
and put out our lanterns. Up snow not steep, to the Wellhornsattel 5.20
where we rested 15 minutes and eat. Up snow again and reached the
Wetterhornsattel at 6.20, the sun came red on the Wetterhorn and
rushed down the slopes about 1/2 hour before we got there.
Magnificent view of the Schreckhorn, the Mˆnch the Eiger and the
Jungfrau. 6.25 up the last snow aretes, very steep, and got to the top
at 7-7.20: it consists of a snow cornice. Down on the saddle at 7.45
and breakfasted. Saw the mists lift from Grindelwald and a pair of
mountain crows much disturbed by us. Down a very long couloir to
the Blechstein Hut 10.15-10.45 and so down flowery slopes, across
the Upper Grindelwald Glacier and down the Milchbach to
Grindelwald which we reached at 1. Lunched by some nice Belgians,
had a bath and went to sleep. At dinner a talkative Englishwoman
was on my other side. Eiger Hotel.