Tues 22 [22 May 1900] Up at 6 and before 8 off with Ahmed the
Soldier and Musa to visit tower tombs. Went into the Kasr el 'Arus on
the Sultany. Basement with tombs, then a very splendid chamber 20 ft
high or more with pilasters separating the shelves of loculi and
carvings much defaced the head and bust of the tomb owners on big
slabs. The ceiling carved and painted, 4 heads at each end and all
over the rest painted and carved diamonds, Tudor sort of work. The
middle had fallen in. Went up into the first story [sic] but cd get no
higher. A cornice round the top outside. Near it the Kasr Ukkt el 'Arus
much more roughly built and nothing but plain chambers up a winding
stair inside. The best and finest built of the tombs have completely
fallen. Then to Kasr el Ghoul also with a fine carved chamber and a
roof covered with birds, dancing cupids, heads. The blue had held
and a sort of pale flesh colour. Near this is a fine tomb of squared
stones quite fallen. Lots of carving on them. Then to the Zeineh
where we went into a cave underground. One part of it all frescoes, 2
full length figures of women one carrying a child and the rest heads of
men and women, Byzantine, with a winged figure resting on a globe
and supporting the disk in which the head was painted. The women
wore a flat sort of Tarbush and a veil over it. Another division of the
cave contained great carved tombs, all the heads broken off. So
home soon after 11. Very hot. Out again at 4 and into the town. Then
rode down to the Hammam and bathed. Delicious evening.