Wed 2 [2 May 1900] Up at 6. The Maamur came at 8 and we went down to the Mudir's where unsatisfactory negotiations about my journey began. Rode with the Maamur to el Khurbet, northwards, crossing a very fine Roman bridge and then E to Jemerrin where I saw some beautiful ruined houses. One was 2 stories [sic] high, the under room alone roofed, with stones, and with carved corbels and shell shaped ornaments in the corners. Another had an ornament of vines over the lintel and a stable with some 20 stone mangers. So back at 11 and I rushed up to the castle and photographed the theatre inside it. It is a labyrinth of galleries, stairs and rooms. The Maamur and the Rais their eyes nicely blacked with kohl came to call after lunch and while they were with me, a Druze Sheikh was hanging around, but we couldn't enter into negotiations with him. A Bedouin has also offered his services for further east. After I had written letters I walked out into the town alone and over the roofs to the church at the NE corner which is an interesting many roomed place each separate room having been converted into a mosque, stone windows and doors. From thence to El Khudr which is remarkably complete as to doors and windows and go home to tea. After which I went up to the castle and was taken by the Maamur into the Rais's room where I found him being shaved without embarrassment. I sat and drunk coffee, arak and water, while the Maamur was also shaved by an orderly. We then talked out and about the town and visited the Khudr again and went into the Mazar. Home by the outside of the Kalaa where there are some very big stones and parted with many promises for the morrow! The Mudir had not come, I dined early and about 8 heard his voice saying Wain rahat as sitt. I blew out my candle and told Hannah to say I had gone to bed. I heard the conversation ending with the Mudir's saying I was to let him know before I went anywhere. This made me alter my plans and I decided to go straight to 'Ary both because the way lay past Jemurrin and because the Mudir might send me to Salkhad. So to bed. But not to sleep much for the mules were seized with panics in the night and my horse also ran off twice with much noise.