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Mon 30. [30 April 1900] Up at 6.30. Hermon [Sheikh, Jebel esh] shining in all its snow, the Jebel Druze [Duruz, Jabal ad] to the East and the Samaria mts to the west. Turned out the ladies who again wanted to visit us and breakfasted in front of Hermon. Said goodbye and parted very sorrowfully at 8.30. Through endless cornfields to Remtheh [Ramtha], passing Huwara [Hawara] on the left. Remtheh is on the Haj [Hajj] road and has a mosque. It lies on a tell. All round it they were cutting grass and loading it onto camels. Crossed the Haj road. We now came to a low line of hills on which crowds of camels were grazing. This is the 'Anazeh country, we have left the Hawarni behind. We got to Deraa [Dar'a] at 2 after lunching in the sun on the hills. Hanna very bad with a heavy cold. Lots of camels carrying in the barley, here ripe. All the buildings of black stone. Lots of Roman stones built into them. We went down to the Ain, waited nearly an hour in the sun and the dust watching the camels and the people. Rode back to look for the mules and found our tents already pitched near the Seraia under a big cemetery in sight of Hermon and the Jebel Druze. Slept and had tea and made a vain attempt to get into the underground town with people who didn't know the way. Went to see a Mazar of Sheikh Wasan and here there were some Ionic columns and inscriptions built into a wall. Then the Kaimakam's secretary came to see me and left me a soldier, Mahmud.