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Diary entry by Gertrude Bell

Reference code
GB/2/7/2/1/5
Creator
Bell, Gertrude Margaret Lowthian
Creation Date
Extent and medium
1 entry, paper
Language
English
Location
Coordinates

32.2746515, 35.8960765

Sat 28. [28 April 1900] Bathed before breakfast and got off at 6.35. Rode upwards through endless cornfields with Circassians working in them and occasionally met their little wooden carts with the solid wooden wheels loading grass. Balut, fash (oak) Za'rur and sarris (I don't know what this is, it looked like sloes) growing in the fields. About 8 we came in sight of the great ruins of Jerash [Jarash] and rode through the Triumphal arch at the S. end of the town. Came down into the Circassian village on the e. bank and rode through it till we found a charming camping ground at the N. end. Gardens of vegetables vines, mishmesh, fuchia[?] boz and joz bordered the stream. Walked out again and photographed all the town - the ruined town. The great line of the outer wall is clearly traceable on either bank of the stream as high up on one as on the other. At the propyleum of the Temple of the Sun, on the heaps of dÈbris, I noticed some fluted columns. The bridge leading to the Temple is fallen but the lower one, one can still walk over a part of the pavement remains. There is a charming little building near the Propylaea with very pretty niches and cornices. The Temple is very fine, but I should think it must have had too many columns round it when they were all standing. On the Triumphal Arch the columns rise out of carved bases that look like capitals - ugly. The best and simplest thing must have been the Southern Temple. The theatres are also fine. At the N. end of the columned street the columns are all Ionic, as are those in the circle - precious bad too. On these there were knobs left, possibly for the builders to handle them. A vulture had its nest in a niche in the S. Temple. The capitals of the Temple of the Sun were almost too elaborate, the acanthus leaves sticking right out. Birds nested in them. Two great Bade Anstalt one on each river bank; the east one overgrown with fruit trees. A couple of exquisite little columns near it and a spring. Sarcophagi used all over as water troughs at the springs. They had a wreath carved in the middle and at either end this [sketch]. At the N end was a small city gate with a mill stream flowing through it and a large square enclosure higher up, strongly walled. I slept after lunch, then we had tea about 4 after which Dr R [Rosen] and I went a second time all over the ruins. I bathed in a garden near a pergola of vines. The road from {Jerash} Salt to Mezeirib [Mahattat al' Muzayrib] was made for the Emperor.

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