Sat 31 [31 March 1900] Off at 7 before which I walked all down the E cliff to some white isolated rocks at the entrance of W.M. [Wadi Musa] All full of tombs. Saw one great portal with no apparent door to a tomb in it. Rode up through the Sik which must be over a mile. Noticed many niches, some of wh. looked like tablets for inscriptions, also a bit of the old paved road and many bits of the watercourse along the cliff. Got to Ain Hehjaf [Arabic characters] which I wrongly called Bir {el} Dabaghat - this is a little further on in the wooded valley - at 10 and lunched under a {cliff} rock. Lots of caterpillars, very hot. On at 11. The valley is wooded with thorns and terebinths. Reached Ain Nejlek at 2.30 and camped under the cliff. Then Ayoub Hanna and I and Mr H [Harding]'s servant, Ifram, rode off 20 minutes to Shobak [Shaubak] which is very finely placed on a mound with very deep valleys on the E and S filled with corn, olives and figs. There is only one door, to the E with a bit of scrolly carving over it. I was welcomed with enthusiasm by the soldiers who showed me all over the ruins of a church with a pointed arch standing and houses packed into the arched aisle. They then took me into the guard room and gave me coffee, a couple of Arabs too who had been sheikhs and swells in the Old days and we talked of Jof [Jawf, Al (Al Jauf)] and Abou Rashid. We cd buy nothing but corn and wood and a little milk. Came back and bathed after photographing the garrison to their great delight. Mrs H. rather bad. They dined early and she went to bed.