Fri 30 [30 March 1900] Ayoub, a shepherd called Hamdan and I set
off an hour before dawn and went to the top of Mt Hor which is not
visible from Wady Musa [Wadi Musa]. Lots of stone heaps but some
only to mark the way. We got up in an hour and a half. At the top is a
modern Mazar with a tomb in it covered with green stuffs and strings of
rags and a looking glass hanging up near. I was further taken down
into a dark hole about which Hamdan knew nothing but that people
generally went there. H. provided himself with a green and red flag
and we went onto the roof from whence we had a fine view across the
Araba, W and S. Wady M. was hidden and to the E the higher ridges
bounded us. There is big cistern. The shapes of the rocks most
wonderful. On the hillside the blue [space left blank] pink cistus, white
broom and the unpromising looking shrub with a little yellow flower
that smells so sweet and Juniper. Got down to the entrance of Wady
Musa about 9 and noticed some fine outstanding square tombs.
Rushed off to photograph. Very hot. Then walked with Tarif down the
NW valley through which the stream flows. Very lovely, olives aloes
and pomegranates. Went a little way up a N. gorge and
photographed a fine tomb. All the rocks beautiful past words,
coloured most exquisitely and water worn into natural niches, deep
crevices. Got back to the camp at 12.30 very hot and found that
provisions had arrived. Lunched and slept till 3.30 when I took
Hamdan and Tarif, and went up to the De'r, up the same N. gorge.
Wonderful rocks. A broken stair led us all the way. Little pines and
things. Suddenly came out in front of the big temple, most surprisingly
situated and finely proportioned though not of very elaborate work.
The capitals of the pillars sort of blocked out Ionic. It took us about
1/2 an hour to get up. Very fine views through the gorge down to
Wady Musa and one enormous precipice dropping 1000 ft down I
should think. Got home and was shown by Musa ibn Sabbah (a man
recommended by the Br¸nows) an inscription which I take to be old
Syrian. Bathed. Surprising lot of long black sort of slugs. Very
sleepy.