Thurs 29. [29 March 1900] Left at 7.45 and Ayoub took us rather a wild
goose chase over the hills, however we refound the R. road and went
down it, with Mt Hor all purple in front, the great Araba beyond, down to
the village of Wady Musa [Wadi Musa] set in gardens and fruit trees.
I found a purple gladiolus growing wild. There was nothing whatever
to be got to eat so we sent out to the Arab camps for a sheep etc. It
was now 10, we descended into the stream with a rock tomb and a
pillared courtyard in front of us, and entered the Bab es Sik. Very
narrow, we plunged down through water and oleanders, wonderful red
colour with ivy on it occasionally. After about 1/4 of a mile through
gap we suddenly saw the Khaznet Pharaun - pink flushed and most
exquisite. Going on the gorge opened a little and there were tombs,
mostly standing out 4 square, then it opened into a sort of square with
the theatre opposite and beautiful tombs all round. These are
perhaps the simplest and most elegant in design though I don't hold
with the staircase pattern on them all. We went on into the great
amphitheatre between the cliffs and camped under the big line of
tombs to the east. I had strained my foot and it was rather painful all
the afternoon. I photographed the Kasr Pharaun and the arch and
then came up and lunched. It was blazing hot. We walked all along
the lines of tombs and up onto the slope of the Acropolis hill and so
over to the SW and home by the pillar of the church. I then then went
to the N[?] and photographed some tombs there, not much
ornamented and very Egyptian looking. Went down and bathed in a
pool between oleanders and R. walls. The lamb has not arrived!