Thurs 22. [22 March 1900] Rather a sleepless night, but I was fast asleep when Hanna called me at 5.30. Fine, but clouds blowing up. At 6.30 I was ready. Mr Baker appeared ready to come. I sent up for my soldier, a big handsome Circassian called Nuh who proved a most cheerful companion and a little before 7 we set off. Rode across the corn to Jelul [Jalul] where we were enveloped in mist, it cleared and revealed a wonderful rolling grass country. Stopped to photograph {some} a camp of Christians from Madeba [Madaba] milking their sheep. On top of the next slope, the Khan of Ziza [Jiza] appeared and we rode down to it and found another camp of Christians where we got salted cakes of milk, and very nice leben. Climbed up the Khan and saw Mashetta [Qasr el Mushatta] in the distance. Extensive ruins behind. Kastal [Qastal, El] far away on the n of the plain. Rode through many flocks of sheep, Salem Yacoub accompanying us out of love. Lots of storks eating the locusts. Crossed the Hadj [Hajj] road consisting of countless beaten out paths, and reached an encampment of the Beni Sakhr from where I cantered on to Mashetta at the foot of the low hills. Most wonderful carved doorway, inside a great court with the vaulted brick palace and columned doors at the n. end of it finished by a sort of brick apse. Arrived about 11 and stayed till 1 lunching and photographing. Mr B. had his dragoman William and a man for his cameras. I had Tarif. As we left, 3 of the Sukhur armed to the teeth rode up and threw us the salaam but retired on seeing our soldier. Went on to the B.S. camp and had sheep's milk. Parted with Salim. Put up a wolf and two foxes. Lots of storks, anemones and blue iris. Recrossed the plain further to the north. Just before Jelul 2 more B.S. met us threateningly, black browed. Of the first 3, one was Sheikh Fais ib Zattam. He had a negro with him and many of the people {with him} within the camp were negroes. Got home at 5. Sun and great cloud shadows sweeping across the rolling plain. Emr Effendi came to see me.