Thurs 22. [22 March 1900] Rather a sleepless night, but I was fast
asleep when Hanna called me at 5.30. Fine, but clouds blowing up.
At 6.30 I was ready. Mr Baker appeared ready to come. I sent up for
my soldier, a big handsome Circassian called Nuh who proved a
most cheerful companion and a little before 7 we set off. Rode across
the corn to Jelul [Jalul] where we were enveloped in mist, it cleared
and revealed a wonderful rolling grass country. Stopped to
photograph {some} a camp of Christians from Madeba [Madaba]
milking their sheep. On top of the next slope, the Khan of Ziza [Jiza]
appeared and we rode down to it and found another camp of
Christians where we got salted cakes of milk, and very nice leben.
Climbed up the Khan and saw Mashetta [Qasr el Mushatta] in the
distance. Extensive ruins behind. Kastal [Qastal, El] far away on the n
of the plain. Rode through many flocks of sheep, Salem Yacoub
accompanying us out of love. Lots of storks eating the locusts.
Crossed the Hadj [Hajj] road consisting of countless beaten out
paths, and reached an encampment of the Beni Sakhr from where I
cantered on to Mashetta at the foot of the low hills. Most wonderful
carved doorway, inside a great court with the vaulted brick palace
and columned doors at the n. end of it finished by a sort of brick apse.
Arrived about 11 and stayed till 1 lunching and photographing. Mr B.
had his dragoman William and a man for his cameras. I had Tarif. As
we left, 3 of the Sukhur armed to the teeth rode up and threw us the
salaam but retired on seeing our soldier. Went on to the B.S. camp
and had sheep's milk. Parted with Salim. Put up a wolf and two foxes.
Lots of storks, anemones and blue iris. Recrossed the plain further to
the north. Just before Jelul 2 more B.S. met us threateningly, black
browed. Of the first 3, one was Sheikh Fais ib Zattam. He had a
negro with him and many of the people {with him} within the camp
were negroes. Got home at 5. Sun and great cloud shadows
sweeping across the rolling plain. Emr Effendi came to see me.