Tues 2. [2 January 1900] Woke with a cold, very .... to be going to Jericho. Started soon after 9, cloudy at first. Nina, Frida and the boys drove. Past Bethany ['Eizariya] and down a steep hill to the Apostles' Well, then along a long narrow shallow wady, greenish with grass and corn but very dull. Nina caught us up here. We had Abd with us and Hassan was with her. At last to a wide valley and on the opposite hill the Khan of the Good Samaritan where we lunched. From here the road was more interesting, steeper, barren valleys with glimpses into the Wady Kelt and the Jordan plain. After an hour or so we left our horses and walked down into the Wady Kelt. Wild and steep with paths most elaborately built up with masonry. A turn of the path brought us suddenly upon the monastery - most lovely, the sun shining down the valley, through the green pepper trees. Charming little terraced garden by the edge of the stream - bananas, vines, reeds all in full autumn colouring. The effect quite tropical. The stream full of water. Walked up to the monastery and upstairs to a little pillared hall with a balcony overlooking the valley from which by an ingenious inclined wire a pail was let down into the stream. The pail had a hole in it so that the water rapidly returned! Went up onto a roof where an anaemic and miserable looking priest was {weaving} spinning wool for rosaries. Saw the chapels with mosaic floor of Justinian's time, the foundation is of the 5th cent. Then had a meal of jam, water, ..... and coffee on the balcony. Picked up lots of porcupine quills outside. Finally to a cave in which were all the bones and skulls of monks murdered by the Arabs, distinct odour of mortality. So down the valley by a narrow footpath. We passed a colony of 15 anchorites by the river edge - their caves closed by green wire doors like meatsafes. One anchorite came out to take in the air but quickly returned when he saw us. An hour's walk brought us out onto the plain, very bare foothills on all sides and the oasis of Jericho full of oranges, vines and barley fields, in front. Got to the Jordon Hotel (chez Ungar) at 5 and had tea. Most comfy and everyone very cheerful. Extraordinarily warm. Walked about in the Arab village of mud and thorn hovels, the houses enclosed by hedges of cut thorn. An Austrian painter called Kremer [see also Kr‰mer] is the only other occupant of the hotel.