Tues 5. [5 December 1899] The storm delayed us. At 8 we were
between Chios [Khios] and Mitylene both topped with a light fall of
snow. Bright and cold. We passed Koa Bournon[?] about 10 and by
11 Smyrna [Izmir] was in sight, lying white beneath hills slightly
touched with snow. Lunched and came to anchor in the bay about 12.
Lots of French men of war. Mr Cumberbatch sent a kavass to meet
me and Mr Oscar van Lennep came himself and insisted on carrying
me off with him. Got through the custom house without any trouble,
went to the Consulate, told Mr C. my plans, lunched with Mr v L. at the
Hotel de la Ville chez Fagiacomo and then went to Mr Alfred van
Lennep's house where we found Mrs O. van L. very friendly. Mrs A. v.
L. came in and we talked of antiquities, then her husband appeared
and showed me Greek vases, real and fake, coins, rubbings and
gems. I saw rubbings of all the Ephesus coins - with a bee or a stag
on one side and a temple with Artemis inside it on the other. We
drove up to the station and caught the 3.30 to Bournabat [Bornova]. A
quarter of an hour through orange groves and past an arm of the sea
and we had arrived. Walked up to the house, had tea and rested till
dinner. Cold and pretty uncomfortable, but my hosts extremely kind.
All very hugger mugger. Cooking shocking, most of the crockery of
various sets. Dined at 7.30 and talked till 10 round the Pandour or
tambor or whatever it is, a wooden table covered with a quilted cloth
and a brazier inside. To bed very sleepy.