Wed 1. June [1 June 1898] Reached Alexandria at 7; round white
towers of old mills; the Pharos where Alexander's Pharos stood and
the Khedive's white palace. The English fleet was lying at anchor and
lots of Greek schooners, poachers many of them. Went to the
Khedivial hotel, then to Cook's and the Consuls to get tickets and
money. Drove through the bazaars and bought coins before lunch.
Black faredjis of the women and curious gold bobbins over the nose
holding the black veil. After lunch went with a dragoman to Pompey's
pillar, then along the canal to Sir John A-'s garden and the
catacombs. Exquisite lauriers[?] roses in full flower. A Nubian
gardener presented me with a bunch of roses - they had the pin as
our guide said. Buffaloes lying in the canal. Our guide also mapped
out our day at Cairo. "You will waste an hour at the Museum etc." He
was Maltese and consequently talked of We English. At 4 off to Cairo,
arrived at 8 after a crowded and very dirty journey. Lord Cromer in the
train; he looked at us curiously having doubtless heard that we had
used his name[?] to borrow money! Country quite flat; crossed Nile
twice. Little mud towns built on tiny mounds, scraggy palms, field bare
after harvest and men treading out corn on all the threshing floors.
Hotel Continental. Made friends with a middy called Faughs who
dined near us.