Fri 25. [25 March 1898] Very fine. Busy morning and fevered
correspondence with the Pessimist. Off at a quarter to 1 for Nikko.
Met Sir Ernest in the train; he was very friendly. Changed at
Shinigawa. Long journey through flat country and many changes.
Read Sir E's Revival of Pure Shinto. Bought tea and teapot for 5
cents. Changed at Utsonomiya [Utsunomiya] about 7 and after a long
wait, up in the dark between hills and cryptomeria avenues to Nikko
where we arrived soon after 9. Long kuroma drive to the hotel
between cryptomerias and up the village street; the shops open and
lighted with Jap lanterns. Dinner and bed. Arai hotel.