Ap 30 Thurs. [30 April 1896] Out early. Went to the Spina where
inside the little tabernacle of a place are 2 charming Madonnas in
gold and marble, both I think by Nino Pisano - one specially nice, full
length, offering a flower to the child. Then to Santa Caterina where I
saw the curious Traini, Triumph of St Dominic with Averroes beneath
his feet. Santa Caterina was the great Dominican foundation and San
Francesco - now secularised - the Franciscan. Then to the Campo
Santo where I met Catherine. Looked in at the Pulpit on my way. We
went together to the Duomo, there is rather a pretty [space left blank]
Virgin and Child hanging against one of the pillars. We then drove to
San Francesco where we saw the remains of Giovanni Pisano's
pulpit, broken in the fire of 1596. Must have been a splendid thing - the
carvings not in themselves as lovely as Niccola's and[?] curiously
more archaic, but the caryatid groups very bold and elaborate.
Picture gallery not very interesting. Left at 2.35 and at first had our
carriage nearly to ourselves. Then crowds of people got in. Rainy
afternoon - the sea looking almost grey - tantalizing journey, the
tunnels at every moment shutting out one's view. Reached Genoa
[Genova] at 7 - very late. Only just had time to fly out and buy things to
eat on the way. Carriage very full, Russian husband and wife and
German mother and daughter. Reached Milan [Milano] at 10.30.
Hotel Grande Bretagne.